Meet Holy Ground Oysters, Oyster Farmers in Mississippi

NOAA's Tide to Table series profiles members of the aquaculture community who provide valuable jobs and access to fresh, sustainably sourced American seafood.

Thomas Piecuch's oyster farm may be floating, but it's anchored in family values. With the help of his father, Sean Piecuch, he founded Holy Ground Oyster Company in Ocean Springs, Mississippi in 2021. His life is metered by the tides and his family.

"My day usually starts with having breakfast with my kids and getting them off to school, which is close to the marina," Thomas says. "Then it's straight to the farm. They're long days but I'm doing what I love with the people I love. It's a dream to be able to work with my dad every day!"

Four years into business, the farm sells to restaurants all along the Northern Gulf. They're working toward a future in which Mississippi oysters are on menus nationwide.

From Fisheries to Farming

After earning degrees in Marine Science and Chemistry from the University of Alabama, Thomas started his career as a NOAA Fisheries observer . He collected fisheries data aboard vessels in the Alaska groundfish program and on shrimp and commercial reef fish boats in the Gulf of America. His work gave him an up-close view of the challenges and importance of sustainable fisheries. Later, he joined NOAA Fisheries Alaska Region as a fisheries manager.

Having gained an understanding of the science and policy behind sustainable seafood practices, he moved home to Mississippi in 2020 and began experimenting with oyster farming. He gained a deeper understanding of the industry by completing the state's 1-year training and certification program. This workforce development initiative is building the next generation of skilled oyster farmers by providing hands-on training and networking opportunities within the Gulf's emerging aquaculture industry. The program gave him a solid foundation in environmental management, permitting, and the business aspects of aquaculture.

After 3 years of juggling a full-time job and a small-scale farm, Thomas took the leap and committed to oyster farming full time in 2023.

A Mississippian Family Business

Cooked wild-capture oysters are a staple of Mississippi cuisine. However, artisanal farmed oysters eaten raw are a new and exciting culinary venture. While Mississippi's oyster farming industry is still young, it's growing rapidly. Thomas hopes to contribute to a sustainable and economically resilient seafood future in Mississippi, while creating opportunities for others to enter the field as he did. "A rising tide lifts all boats," he says.

Today, Holy Ground Oyster Company is still a father-son operation. Thomas manages day-to-day operations, while his father Sean contributes engineering expertise. Together, they're helping build a model for what Mississippi oyster farming can be.

Farming Oysters from Tide to Table

Holy Ground's 4-acre lease sits just outside of Biloxi Bay in the Mississippi Sound. It's an area once referred to as "holy ground" by local Indigenous communities. The site's unique combination of high wave energy, consistent bay currents, and nutrient-rich water creates optimal conditions for oyster farming.

The farm uses floating cages and works in harmony with the surrounding environment. Oysters filter feed everything they need from the water' they don't require inputs like water and food. "We let Mother Nature do the work for us," Thomas says. But there's still plenty to do.

Daily tasks include flipping cages, tumbling and sorting oysters, repairing gear, and harvesting and fulfilling orders. "If we do our part to take care of the oysters, the environment helps fill the gaps and cleans and shapes the oysters for us as well."

Oysters return the favor. As filter feeders, they naturally clean the water and remove excess nitrogen, phosphorus, and carbon. This is particularly important in the Gulf which receives nutrient runoff from the Mississippi River. These excess nutrients contribute to a large dead zone, a seasonal low-oxygen area that harms marine life. Oysters can help filter out some of these nutrients and contribute to a healthier coastal ecosystem.

Holy Ground oysters carry the unique signature of the waters they grow in. "Our oysters have a sweet scallop brine taste upfront, strong umami with cream of mushroom flavor, and finish with a snappy wild mustard tang," Thomas describes.

With plans to produce half a million oysters next year, Thomas is focused on scaling sustainably. He wants to grow his business while holding on to the family values that built it. "I get to do two things every day that I dreamed of when I was growing up: work on the water and work with my family. If I'm lucky, one day I'll share this life and business with my own children."

Fun Fact

The Mississippi Department of Natural Resources Off-Bottom Oyster Aquaculture Training Program provides on-the-water training for aspiring commercial oyster farmers in Mississippi at no cost to students!

Recipe: The West Indies Mignonette

Ingredients

• 3-4 whole shallots, finely diced
• 1 lb fresh picked crabmeat
• White wine vinegar
• 1 lemon
• Salt and pepper

Steps

1. Combine the shallots and crabmeat in a bowl.
2. Add the juice of 1 lemon and half the lemon in zest.
3. Season with salt and pepper.
4. Pour enough white wine vinegar to just cover the ingredients.
5. Stir, cover, and refrigerate for 1 hour.
6. Place a heaping spoonful on a freshly shucked Holy Ground oyster and enjoy a taste of the Mississippi Gulf Coast.